SICILY - THE FORGOTTEN (WHITE) LOTUS LAND OF ITALY
Thanks to the HBO smash new series 'White Lotus' - people have (re)discovered Sicily - the island most forgotten by those planning travel to Italy.
Having had the pleasure of spending time on this hidden (not so much anymore) gem of an island - I'm here to tell you it's one you need to add to your bucket list and next trip to Italy.
In October 2019, I escorted a group to Italy that began in Rome, moved down the Amalfi Coast, including island of Capri, and ferried over to Sicily to Catania. After a week, we ended in Palermo, with an overnight ferry back to Naples. Spectacular!
Not only is Sicily the largest region in Italy, but it's also the largest island in the Mediterranean. It's culturally packed with incredible villages, miles of untouched beaches and ruins that rival Greece.
Photo: Sicilian beach we'd just enjoyed our seaside lunch at
But Sicily is not only Taormina, Cefalu and Mount Etna (filming locations of White Lotus) - it's a universe of epicentres, with medieval hilltop towns that make you exclaim - how the h*ll did they do that, centuries ago?!
Sicily's the agricultural centre of Italy - long noted for its fertile soil, pleasant climate and natural beauty - you travel through orchards of olive, orange, and lemons. They grow pistachios, almonds and grapes.
Photo: 'Picking' or harvesting the olives from the orchards
Seafood is fished right off the coast - Sea to Table.
It's very distinct in cuisine, language, wine, pasta, sauces, (sea) salt and olive oil. And let's not forget 'The Godfather'.
The sweet scent of the Plumeria flowers surround you in the gardens and on the balconies. This often-forgotten part of Italy is breathtaking and memorable.
There's so much to experience and talk about, but I'll mention a few highlights.
Photo: Our ferry ride from mainland Italy to Sicily with our besties
The ferry ride over from Calabria (the tip of the mainland boot) was only 45 minutes but refreshing on a warm, sunny day. Upon landing on Sicily, we wound our way past the vineyards and orchards, making our way to the Taormina area.
TAORMINA
Magnificently situated on a 700-foot plateau overlooking the Ionian Sea, the heart of Taormina is Piazza Nove Aprile, a paved square with unrivaled views of the sea and Mount Etna. Closed off to most motorized vehicles, it's definitely a walking mecca of cobbelstone streets and eye candy everywhere you look!
Photo: Our entrance into the hilltop city of Taormina
We had to stop and sample some of the best cannoli in Italy, made right here - at I dolci di Nonna Rosa's.
Tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough stuffed with sweet ricotta cream - OMG!
That evening, we enjoyed a delicious Sicilian style dinner at a family-owned, seaside cafe. We were serenaded with folk music and entertainment by the local owner, family and staff. And there was much dancing by all!
Sit under the vines and have a cannoli and strong cup of coffee in Savoca, close to Taormina, for a slice of Sicilian life.
You'll recognize 'Bar Vitelli' from a scene in Francis Ford Coppola's 'The Godfather'. The doorway with the graphic font, collection of rattan chairs and round-topped tables are exactly the same as in the famous film scene.
MOUNT ETNA
One of the world's most active volcanoes, Mount Etna is visible from almost anywhere on the east coast of the island and in a constant state of activity. It lies between the cities of Messina and Catania.
Photo: our view of Mount Etna - from Taormina
You have the option to hike around the village at the top or take a jeep or cable-car ride for a better view of the top.
At an elevation of 3357m, be prepared for cooler temps at the top. It's a good way to find out if you're affected by the altitude difference.
PIAZZA ARMERINA - AGRIGENTO
Piazza Armerina is a maze of steep streets, overflowing with the colourful atmosphere of Sicilian life.
At nearby Casale, we enjoyed a visit to the Roman Villa, a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for it's mosaics, including the whimsical 'Bikini Girls'.
Photo: The famous 'Bikini Girls' mosaic
They've done an amazing job of preserving and making the viewing of these and so many more, accessible.
Agrigento's Valley of the Temples was one of my favourite stops on our itinerary. It's an archeological jewel.
Photo: The Acropolis in Agrigento's Valley of the Temples
One of the finest example of Greek civilization existing today, the Doric Temple of Concord and the hilltop Temple of Juno Lacinia, were fascinating and magical.
SELINUNTE - MARSALA
One of the most striking and interesting sites in Sicily, Selinunte won't disappoint.
At the apex of its power before 409BC, the city exceeded 30,000 people, excluding slaves. Here you'll see the remains of the Acropolis with its temples and fortifications.
Not to be missed, is a stop on th western coast, Marsala. Also celebrated for Marsala wine, the real gem is a local salt mill, still operating and producing.
You'll see shimmering heaps of white crystals, red roofed windmills and contained ponds.
Photo: The Marsala Salt Mills
Starting out looking like a mirage, you'll find yourself surrounded by the oldest chemical industry in the world. Salt production on western Sicily has been around for 3,000 years. A tour of the mill and the process was captivating.
TRAPANI - ERICE
These two Sicilian treats should be added onto your agenda. Trapani is set on a harbour and once at the heart of a powerful trading network stretching from Carthage to Venice.
Built primiarily in baroque style, the city center stretches along the port.
The medieval hilltop town of Erice, can be be reached either by cable car or driving up the winding, mountainous road. Situated about 2500 feet above sea level, it immediately impresses with its defensive walls and castle.
Photo: the medieval castle of the hilltop village of Erice
On a beautiful clear day, we enjoyed the breathtaking views over the Trapani Gulf and Egadi Island - and if you look even further out - all the way to the African coast.
PALERMO - KINGDOM OF THE SUN
Sitting close to where Europe ends and Africa begins, the coastal and colourful port city of Palermo has much to offer. Interesting squares and marketplaces, churches and palazzos in every style - from Moorish to baroque.
Photo: Palermo Street Food and Markets
This city is a melting pot of culture. Spend some time getting lost here.
A 20-minute bus ride away, is the former fishing village and picturesque seaside escape, of Mondello.
Dominating the seafront, is the opulent, art nouveau Antica Stabilimento Balneare. Boasting a piano bar for cocktails and an elegant terrace restaurant, it's a great way to spend your time enjoying.
OVERNIGHT FERRY CROSSING TO NAPLES
What a treat it was, to embark onto the ferry that would carry us across the Tyrrhenian Sea overnight.
Booked into our own cabin, with a toilet and shower, made for a rock-a-bye-baby sleep, waking up to Naples in the morning.
We enjoyed drinks and tasted that evening, saying farewell to Sicily, in the ferry dining room.
NAPLES
Next morning we were treated with a coffee and pastry tray at Caffe Gambrinus in Naples, one of the most renowned literary cafes in Naples.
The meeting place is famous for intellectuals, politicians and businessmen/women, including Oscar Wilde and Ernest Hemmingway.
This landmark cafe has been around since 1860. Marble floors, wooden panels and dapper waiters channel old-school Naples here.
Photo: Caffe Gambrinus patio in Naples - our morning treat
We enjoyed our coffee and treats on the outdoor patio.
Keep in mind - most Italians do not sit down to enjoy their coffee - they go inside, order and drink it while standing - so you'll pay a premium to have yours delivered by your waiter - but it's so worth it.
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